Every Day is Sunday

Walking the streets of the Gion neighborhood in Kyoto was like entering a different era.  Small red lanterns hang between the teak houses lighting the way for women dressed in kimono shuffling quickly between social functions.  Gion is unique in that it has largely avoided modernization and looks much like it did 50 years ago.  We could not help but admire the Japanese for the way they preserve their ancient culture even while living in a modern society. 

The Gion neighborhood is most famous for its tea houses where Geisha have been entertaining wealthy Japanese men for centuries.  Although the art of Geisha is waning in the modern era, there are still more than a few geishas walking the streets of Gion. We stalked one Geisha through the streets until she was nice enough to stop and allowed us a picture.

Although we saw the influence of Western culture all over Japan, young Japanese are not forsaking their rich cultural heritage for Nike and McDonalds.  All over Kyoto, we saw young girls in the traditional kimono dress, and even a blushing bride in a traditional white head covering.

Unlike Tokyo and Osaka, Kyoto was not a target of the carpet bombings that destroyed much of Japan during World War II.  Some of the oldest and most important shrines in all of Japan are located in Kyoto. 

 By far the most beautiful spots in Kyoto are the gardens.  In a fast-paced country where space is at a premium, the huge tranquil gardens located throughout the city are quite meaningful and impressive. 

Our favorite way to experience a country’s culture is through food.  The Japanese food is generally tasty, but it has been largely an unaccesible mystery to us.  In Tokyo we had very little idea about what we were eating.  In Kyoto we had absolutely no idea.  Even when there were English menus, they were not very helpful.

After spending our first few nights at a hostel, we decided to spend our last night in Kyoto at a traditional Ryokan.  A Ryokan is a type of traditional Japanese Inn that was most popular during the Edo period (1603-1868).  We checked into Kikokuso, an intimate two-story wooden Ryokan with an exquisite Japanese garden that has been family-run for five generations. 

Our hosts met us at the door and warmly invited us to join them as their guests for the evening.  We removed our shoes at the front door, traded them for laughably small slippers, and ambled down the narrow wooden corridor to our room. 

We opened the sliding door to find a lovely 10-tatami mat room with a balcony.  In the center of the room was a table, two legless chairs, and a pot of hot green tea.  We slipped on our Yukata – cotton kimono worn after bathing – and headed to the onsen for a traditional Japanese bath.  At night the table and chairs were pushed aside and futons were spread out on the floor to sleep on. 

While many Japanese still hold fast to their ancient customs, we also saw evidence that the times are a-changing.  One afternoon we wandered into a coffee shop run by a father, mother, and daughter.  The shop was quiet and so the daughter invited us to join her and her friends at their table.  We learned that the family had made kimonos for several generations, but that the business closed because fewer and fewer people wear kimonos.  The family decided to open a coffee shop where they display kimonos and try to revive interest in this ancient dress.  The shop was celebrating its one-month anniversary that afternoon, and we promised to come back when the shop celebrates its 10-year anniversary.